Mixtli - progressive mexican culinaria

Mixtli - progressive mexican culinaria

At Mixtli restaurant in San Antonio, the heritage food of historic Mexico is off the rails and in the clouds. Literally.

Want something unique to eat? Head to the suburban neighborhood of Olmos Park north of downtown San Antonio. Find a former train yard turned parking lot with a stubby row of shops, a bar, an asian noodle house. And a blue, windowless 40x10 foot railroad boxcar sitting behind a coffee shop at the end of it all. Not a place where one might expect to get a good meal, right? But this is San Antonio — one of America’s “new cities,” which is to say it’s an old city, small and for decades known but largely overlooked. It's one of those cities that in recent years has suddenly awoken and grown up into an enclave that, though small in stature, is large in offerings of things that people today really want. Including food. Really good food. And one place that stands at the front of the pulsing line of unique, outstanding eateries run by starbound chefs is Mixtli.

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Behold, the unlikely fritter!

Behold, the unlikely fritter!

It’s apple fritters the way you think you don’t want them: produced in large batches in an industrial kitchen while delivery trucks sit in the pre-dawn darkness out back, waiting. They are the 7-Eleven minimarket apple fritters of New Jersey. And they are uncommonly delicious.

I’m just going to come out and say it: I love apple fritters. Okay, sure, when the Autumn leaves turn to a kaleidoscope of New England colors, who doesn’t like apple fritters -- those bronzed pillows of sweet dough, sugar and bite of apple goodness. But that’s not what I’m talking about. This is something different – familiar and common yet totally unexpected. It’s apple fritters the way you think you don’t want them: produced in large batches in an industrial kitchen while delivery trucks sit in the pre-dawn darkness out back, waiting. They are the 7-Eleven minimarket apple fritters of New Jersey. And they are uncommonly delicious.

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