Beau Legs Fish ‘N’ Chips - with this NOLA cooking, you're bound to pass a good time.

Cajun Fried Frogs Legs

Cajun Fried Frogs Legs

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It was one of those proud days in the life of a dad. A day that at first seems so far in the distance, then suddenly is upon you without warning. It was the day my sons — both of them — got their driver’s licenses. The practices on quiet streets and real-life road driving in traffic and on highways was done, the papers were signed and sealed. It was time to celebrate by, what else: a road trip to get some food! Local knowledge suggested that we hit a little Southern fish and chips joint with unusual items, so we agreed that Beau Legs Fish ‘N’ Chips near Olympia WA was the place for us.

Walking inside the small restaurant, Beau Legs looks like any other strip-mall dining joint, with a scattering of tables, a few mardi gras decorations and a counter beneath a television. But as proprietors Shelly and Germine Harris clearly planned, a cursory scan of inconspicuous menu items reveals the truth about this little place: it is not like all other fish and chip joints, and they take their food seriously. Like the Cajun Frog Legs as a starter. Sometimes things not found on a typical menu really do “taste like chicken” and these legs were prepared just like that and delivered a similar taste but was elevated to something special by a spicy cajun batter and that trademark mild green, fishy-frog taste (Hey, don’t knock ‘em till you try ‘em, ‘cause they’ll make ya slap ya mama!).

Fried Chicken Gizzards

Fried Chicken Gizzards

Fried Gizzards are not a common thing in most fish fry house yet here they were, golden and chewy. The buttermilk brine helped tenderize the nicely cleaned and trimmed meat, which delivered a delicate, almost sweet taste without even a hint of that “organy” essence that so many fear. They’re better than any chicken “popper” you’ll find almost anywhere.

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There are few sandwiches which define Louisiana better than a po boy, and a southern fish house making one is something not to be missed. The fish was, of course, catfish and was flaky and nicely crusted. It rested in a loaf of New Orleans style French bread, with a light crust that was toothsome but easily gave way to soft fluffy dough. The sandwich was dressed with a rich rémoulade engulfing tomatoes, shredded lettuce and sliced pickles. It was the classic po boy flavor with the earthy catfish adding that distinctive bayou taste.

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Two side orders called out to us the moment we saw them: fried pickles and okra. Each offered its own, Big Easy enjoyment that can only be found in good southern cooking. The pickles had a delicate batter that was crisp and light and didn't slide off when you picked them up — further demonstrating Chef Harris’ deep frying skill back in the kitchen. The okra were generously dusted in cornmeal before hitting the oil and browned to perfection; their silky insides so steamy and tender without any slimy mouthfeel. They were as good as fried okra ever needs to be.

I must admit to pausing when I first eyed the hush puppies that were given to us as a cajun lagniappe. They looked darker than customary and I thought they had burned. But my fears were dashed upon the first, tentative bite, when the flavor of sweet onion and parsley burst forward. These puppies were dark due to the natural sugars and comprised an important part of the meal. The soft, moist centers were more flavor bombs than just little mounds of dough tossed to shut the dog up.

To call Beau Legs Fish ‘N’ Chips a southern fish and chips joint is really a misnomer, because this understated little place — like a string of shiny beads thrown from a Bourbon Street balcony — isn’t just Southern cooking; it’s NOLA cooking. And I can’t wait to get back to Lacey soon to, y’know, laissez les bon temps rouler!

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Beau Legs Fish ‘N’ Chips  8765 Tallon Ln NE, Lacey, WA 

Cajun Translations (If you don’t already know these, you need to take a trip to NOLA soon)

  • Make ya slap ya mama = Delicious

  • Big Easy and NOLA = New Orleans

  • Lagniappe = a little something extra

  • Laissez les bon temps rouler! = Let the good times roll!

  • Pass a good time = Have a blast

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