Mike’s Noodle House: Why Not to Judge a Book by its Cover.
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One of the fun things about foodwalking is finding those holes in the wall that everyone loves to tell everyone else about. It gives much coveted street cred and bragging rights: “Oh, it’s just a little hole in a wall; you’ve never heard of it.” And it can be true: those little dives that seem to get overlooked as unimportant by “in the know” foodies are often the most exciting eateries to, ahem, dive into. Typically these places lack everything in decor, pomp and circumstance but make up for it with outstanding food and honest prices, somehow shattering the label of “dive joint” and instead being seen as simply “great little places.”
That’s how I think of Mike’s Noodle House in Seattle’s Chinatown/International District. Some might see it as a wall hole; but others overlook its insipid appearance and recognize it instead as a place that should not be missed. From the outside, Mike’s looks like so many other small establishments in this neighborhood. A faded awning with chipped lettering overhangs a single doorway and glass storefront ordained with a variety of stickers, hand scrawled signs and dusty-looking curtains such that you can’t really see what’s going on inside. And when you venture in, the initial appearance isn't much better. About a dozen small tables pushed close together fill the single room, in the back of which is a steamy window looking into the cluttered kitchen. A random scattering of Asian decorations hang on the wall and a curious playlist of Rolling Stones/Chinese traditional strings/Frank Sinatra wafts throughout. One glance and you know it’s put together for food service, nothing more. My kinda place.
One look at Mike’s menu and you instantly see that this is not your local Happy-Family-Great-Wall neighborhood joint. This place is the real deal, with several ingredients which are unfamiliar — and even off-putting — to the typical General Tso-seeker. I’m talking about innards, fish eggs and similar “parts,” used in dishes undiscovered by the good people at Panda Express. But by true Chinese cuisine standards this place is pretty basic, with nothing very special aside from just properly-cooked traditional cuisine. Which in my book makes it very special indeed.
The uniqueness of some of the dishes is not to suggest that Mike’s Noodle House isn’t popular. In fact it draws a large, regular crowd, most of whom seek some variation of Mike’s two specialties: Congee and Noodle Soup. Broad categories, yes, but it’s intended to be that way, offering a wide range of selections to meet a broad spectrum of tastes. From their ever-popular Wonton Noodle Soup to a less familiar Squid Ball with Seaweed Soup, there is something for nearly everyone. Like offal? No problem — they have it with Pork Liver Noodle Soup, or stomach, or intestines and more. For something closer to the sea, you can have the Fried Tofu And Fish Egg Noodle Soup. And be sure to have them throw some Sui Kau dumplings in along with the wontons for a blast of shrimp, century egg and pork flavor that’s as good as it gets.
When your bowl arrives you can tell by the sight and the aroma that it will make you happy. Thin alkaline noodles, springy and slender like vermicelli, rest in the middle of the bowl, bathing in a fish-based broth and mingling with — depending on your ordering prowess — wontons, Sui Kau, slices of meat and veg. The choices of soup you can have are vast, and after one you will want to try more.
Then there is the congee, perhaps the mainstay of Mike’s menu. It seems such a simple dish: that Cantonese staple of rice slow-cooked in water or broth until breaking down into a soupy porridge. Creamy and rich like congee should be, Mike’s is thick and gruel-like in look and texture. But when they add bits of pork, fish, offal, veg or any other items available, the bowl transforms into a meal that not only warms your insides, but enriches your soul. Dipping some you tiao bread crullers after stirring in a healthy dollop of chili oil sends it over the top. And if your foodwalking adventure last night descended to “boozewalking,” this will cure what ails you better than just about anything.
While the congee and the soups are the framework of Mike’s menu, a side of Special Fish Cakes can round out any meal. They display a rough, handmade appearance, dense with fish and shrimp paste blended with scallions and herbs and squeezed into luscious lumps for steaming. Their flavor is only mildly fishy and fresh; their appearance and texture almost like a dumpling without the skin. Yeah, they aren’t pretty, but they are fishelicious.
Let’s be clear: to food porn aficionados most of the dishes at Mike’s appear, well, light beige and drab. And dressing it up with soy, red vinegar and chili oil helps about as much as putting lipstick on a pig. So bring on the Stir Fried Lettuce with Oyster Sauce to add a little green to the otherwise colorless spread of food before you. Iceberg, stir fried and drizzled with oyster sauce is as simple and pure as can be, and adds a pop of color which, well, helps a little. But while it still may not win the Prettiest Food at the Fair prize or elevate your Insta-image to viral fame, you will find its bold and fresh flavor surprisingly delicious. And each bite will be further evidence that one should not judge an excellent culinary book by its bland culinary cover.
Mike’s Noodle House, 418 Maynard Ave S, Seattle
