Project Sichuan #10 - Slivered Pig Ears (Hongyou er si) - great pig is more than just pork
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It always amuses me when I see people turn their noses up at something to eat because it seems unfamiliar or gross (ex, fried calve’s liver). But at the same time they’ll gladly dig in to a something else that, to others, is equally appalling (ex, foie gras). It’s all a matter of what one knows, as opposed to what something actually is. “Familiar” generally is seen as good while “unfamiliar” is often suspect. Take a pig’s ear, for example – unless one heads to an asian or latino market, the large, floppy pig ear is too often disrespected in the US. But for being a beloved ingredient in American soul food or at a nose-to-tail eatery, the wonder of a porcine ear is not something typically found in the American larder. Instead, we see them at pet stores for our dogs to chew. Not so in China; especially in Sichuan Province. There, Slivered Pig’s Ears (Hongyou er si) is one of those dishes that people relish and, once enjoyed, is not easily forgotten.
Though considered one of many forms of “offal,” Slivered Pig’s Ears – sometimes called “Red Oil Pig Ear Salad” – is a dish of simply skin, meat and cartilage, cooked gently and flavored powerfully. The reddish oil of spicy chilis and ground Sichuan peppercorn, blended with chicken stock, fresh crushed garlic and a little sugar to round out the biting edges, melds perfectly with the small pile of sliver-cut strips of boiled ear, sprinkled with fresh cilantro, scallion greens, sesame seeds and crushed fried peanuts. Served like a delicate cold “salad” the combined sensation of eating this dish is unique, satisfying and instantly addictive.
One of the special things about slivered pigs ears is that, in the classic Sichuan style of cuisine, it combines differing tastes and textures into every bite. Its signature mouthfeel is at once firm and also soft to the chew. That’s largely due to the structure of the ear itself: skin, layered with pink flesh and glossy cartilage in a thin, flat package. Each layer of the ear delivers a different mouthfeel and taste, and when cooked gently becomes a more complex eating experience than you’d think. The skin is soft and almost silky. The flesh is mildly porky and meaty, like a sliver of excellent, uncured bacon. And the cartilage, while lacking a discernible taste, gives a little tension and crunch to the tooth, adding a subtle chewiness. Each bite delivers a combination of these features which, when bathed in a spicy mala oil solution and topped with fresh herbs, is satisfying on multiple levels of taste, texture, heat and freshness.
Whether at the start of a meal with other small bites, or simply as a satisfying snack, Slivered Pigs Ears – once discovered – can leave many with a curious longing. Perhaps it’s so satisfying because you have to work a little for it – like a thick piece of gum or a licorice stick. Maybe it’s that soft-but-chewy texture mixed with an herbaceous and chili spice taste of the oil in which it is served. No wonder it’s found at nighttime cafes where it is a favored snack best served with booze. One bite followed by a shot or a beer and you will hunker down for a long delicious night with friends. And any prior reservations you had about eating pig ears will be forever dashed.
